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(generated from captions) I'm glad he knows how lucky he is. What's that you're doing? Don't worry. where she mentions you. Don't! I saved you the ones You can't burn Aunt Jane's letters. a secret love story to uncover. You still believe there's Maybe I still hope there is. She was the sun of my life, the gilder of every pleasure, the soother of every sorrow. concealed from her, I had not a thought a part of myself. and it's as if I lost to ask you for a dance. My husband sent me was the dancer in this family. Your Aunt Jane such a night as this, "When I look out on wickedness nor sorrow in the world." "I feel as if there could be neither "You are the delight of my life." listen to your own heart now." "Fanny, Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk

'Ahead on Compass...' ENERGETIC SINGING of constructible land 'Here, a square metre

is the most expensive in the world. only stops once a year for one week. A veritable hive of activity that The week of the haj.' for joining me Hello again. Thank you begin preparing as Muslims around the world for the annual pilgrimage to Mecca. That's in ten days' time. now attend the haj More then three million Muslims annual pilgrimage by far. making it the world's biggest development of Mecca itself, This film charts the monumental holiest place in the Islamic world indeed the transformation of the

to cater for this massive influx to come. that's expected to grow in years

you've never seen it before. It's religious tourism like from every corner of the earth, 'Every day, millions of people gather here. turn towards Mecca and the Kaaba. Their gaze and their prayers According to Arab Muslim tradition, in the world. the Kaaba is the first creation The first temple of humanity.' (ALL PRAY IN ARABIC) PRAYERS OVER SPEAKERS embroidered with gold, 'Under this black covering, is the black stone, the sacred stone. 24 hours a day, seven days a week,

this square thousands of the faithful circle in the footsteps of Abraham, of all three monotheistic religions. the father It is the beginning of the hajj, the great pilgrimage, one of the five pillars of Islam. pilgrimage at least once in his life. Every Muslim must undertake this a 1.5 billion practitioners Today, there are more than of Islam in the world this great journey. and all of them dream of making no less than four million Muslims In a few days, will come together here. their numbers increase. And each year, Mecca is being transformed. As a result, The Saudis think big. building projects proliferate. Everywhere, The city is a vast building site.

Here, there will be a luxury hotel, boutiques, over there, shopping malls. and it shows.' The pilgrimage is a booming business metamorphosis, TRANSLATOR: It's a veritable

doesn't stop just in this area. construction everywhere, and it

It's beyond a metamorphosis. of an appropriate word for it. I can't even think 'In 2006, more than five billion euros the pilgrimage brought in and as for the future, in 2050, Muslims in the world - there will be more than 2.5 billion 2.5 billion potential pilgrims for the Saudis. an inexhaustible source of revenue Thanks to this man, the transformation of the holy city. France is an active participant in Abderahman Belgat is the head in Saudi Arabia. of a major French hotel chain A chain that is constantly expanding. the latest jewel in the crown - Now he is leading us to visit the hotel Zamzam. one must take this underpass To get there, of the Kaaba. beneath the sacred perimeter TRANSLATOR: Welcome to the Zamzam. newest luxury hotel. We're in the holy city's It opened less than a year ago. Parisian hotels, 'A connoisseur of the most beautiful to the smallest details Abderahman Belgat pays attention that make all the difference.' (SPEAKS FOREIGN LANGUAGE) that they are all in line. I would like to be sure

Yes. OK? flower? Every days? When you receive these fresh Every morning, yes. On the morning? Salam wa aleikum. (SPEAKS FURTHER) TRANSLATOR: It's impressive. It's all in the details. the difference in everything. Obviously that's what makes Don't believe for a second only a ritual. that being in Mecca is Only a spiritual matter. hospitality, It's also about first-class about a certain generosity, as I said earlier, and then attending to every detail, and I repeat... that is given to each detail. Luxury is the special attention of the Zamzam.' 'We are now on the 38th floor This will be a...restaurant. With three levels? Three levels. Yes. One level down and this level and... 'The three top floors of the hotel for the Saudi royal family.' are reserved Ah, tent. This will be a tent. to the highest summit in Mecca. TRANSLATOR: We're climbing up of saying to us, Perhaps it's the Lord's way you're invited to enter paradise. (LAUGHS) imagined this TRANSLATOR: Who could ever have that today this would be possible? This constantly amazes you. It's more than just amazement. I'm moved by all this. I'm deeply moved.

above the Kaaba. Imagine being this high (SPEAKS FRENCH) accommodate 2.5 million pilgrims TRANSLATOR: This area can that are being added around us and these extensions of increasing our capacity are going to give us the possibility to over four million. So it's a huge business. what's fabulous... On the other hand, out with great respect for religion, ..is that this business is carried enormous respect. personally involved in the details And today, King Abdullah is believe here in Saudi Arabia, because he believes, as they all that they are the elect.

enough oil to make their reserves, They have land that has produced the 25th largest in the world. And on the other hand, they say to themselves, we have a new manna from heaven that will last eternally. Mecca and Medina. Look at this miniscule piece of ground.

Look at what we're in the process of doing here and it is being done the way it should be done. And will there be towers even higher than these? No, I don't think so. (SPEAKS FRENCH) As long as these towers are occupied by the royal family and its inner circle, we can't go any higher. (CHUCKLES)

I think that we've reached the limit, like at the top of the Eifel tower! 'We continue our guided tour. The hotel has 1,600 rooms that can cost as much as 1,300 euros a night.' (SPEAKS FRENCH) What's unbelievable is that from this room, like most of the rooms,

you can look down on the house of God, the house of Abraham.

We are in a place which lends itself to meditation and prayer because the hotel is actuall inside the walls of Mecca." There's construction everywhere. It's a permanent work site. To give you a specific figure, more than 13,300 people worked day and night to finish the Zamzam tower. Look, you can see for yourself.

It's a little after midnight, work is going on 24 hours a day! A veritable hive of activity that only stops once a year for one week.

The week of the hajj. For this great pilgrimage, faithful Muslims come from all over. From about 100 countries including France. Thousands of miles from the holy city, Bordeaux - the Pellegrin Hospital. Doctor Attout is finishing his day's work.' TRANSLATOR: See you next week! TRANSLATOR: Goodbye. TRANSLATOR: There. The last consultation. Before leaving for the great pilgrimage, Mecca.

'This physician from Bordeaux is one of the pilgrims who was lucky enough to obtain a visa to go to Mecca during the week of the hajj. A privilege. The Saudi Arabian royal kingdom sets quotas each year. For France, 30,000 pilgrims are accepted out of 100,000 applications.' TRANSLATOR: I feel I need to do this. I don't know how to explain it. It's a need that comes from within myself. Of course, it's because of great faith, great conviction. One fine day, you decide to make the leap and you go. Of course, there is the influence of the people who have already done it. Friends, brothers, cousins... My parents have already gone twice.

And certainly, when you listen to them, right away you want to go too.

'Doctor Attout decided at the last minute. He's leaving with his wife - three weeks in Mecca. His pilgrimage is planned from the first to the last day by a travel agency accredited by the Saudi authorities.' Ever since we made the decision, we've been very excited about going. We've tried to prepare, we bought a lot of books,

and they gave us guide books as well. We've tried to learn as much as possible about the holy rite itself. 'Before leaving, Doctor Attout did a lot of research. Above all, he looked for the best travel agency. He searched the internet, compared, was suspicious, because in the past, hundreds of pilgrims have been swindled. Finally, the travel agency charged him 3,500 euros per person - the price to pay, he says, for tranquillity.' (SPEAKS FRENCH) RANSLATOR: The agency handles flight and hotel reservations. And the five days of the religious rites. The tents with all the meals included. Then we'll have guides, apparently there are three guides, three imams who will help us carry out our religious duties. The agency charged us 3,500 euros per person but we chose a tour that was a little more expensive. There are others for 2,200 per person. I think that the least expensive tour that I saw in the different agencies was 2,200 euros. 'This year in France, like Doctor Attout,

there are thousands leaving for Mecca for the first time. Day One - at the Paris airports, there's a great excitement. Some of the pilgrims, impatient, have already put on traditional clothing. The Attout couple arrives from Bordeaux. Before boarding, he has to pick up the necessary documents from his travel agency.' (BOTH GREET EACH OTHER) RANSLATOR: What did they just give you there? TRANSLATOR: Apparently, it looks like... I think it must contain all the necessary documents. The passport, the airplane tickets and the badge. I don't know what's written here. That's someone else. (CHUCKLES) he same here, it isn't mine. It's not yours? No, they made a mistake. It's nothing serious. 'It's nothing serious except that without the documents, and the special hajj visa, no pilgrimage. The Saudi authorities make no exceptions.' Finally, we have our documents! 'A minor incident of no consequence. In a few hours, the terminal is empty. Mount Arafat in Saudi Arabia. This is the first stage of the ritual. We are less than 20km from Mecca. Mount Arafat, the mountain of pity. According to tradition, it's at the top of this mountain that Adam and Eve,

expelled from paradise, found each other again. From noon until sunset, the pilgrims have to pray. They chant. It's a moment of communion for them.' (ALL CHANT IN ARABIC) 'The faithful come from all over the world. Seen from the air, it's even more impressive. A virtual tide of human beings. 120 countries and nationalities are represented. The Saudis are the most numerous, followed by the Indonesians, the Pakistanis, the Indians and the Turks. The Europeans are the minority - barely 3% of the pilgrims.

Mount Arafat comes alive for one day each year. The rest of the time, hard to believe, but the place is deserted.' SIRENS BLARE 'For transportation, the authorities have made buses available to the media. We have a police escort. Everywhere, the same traffic jams.' TRANSLATOR: To get any further, we'll have to go the other way! (SPEAKS ARABIC) 'Neither the efforts of our driver, nor the ministry badges allow us to go any further. We're forced to continue on foot. In 40-degree heat, the tightly packed crowd advances step by step. Hours go by, but the situation doesn't improve. How many are there? According to the officials, more than 3.5 million people. The police also have a hard time getting through.' SIREN WAILS 'Now, everyone heads for the Muzdalifah, the second stage in the pilgrimage.' In France, when they organise the World Cup, they prepare themselves for ten years! And usually around 500,000, half a million will show up in the stadiums, but here, we have more than three million in one places AND different culture, different languages, different country, and most of them, they are elderly. In the World Cup, usually young people, you know, energetic, more educated people, but here, we are dealing with different. This is really a huge task and we do that for every single year. 'Imagine 3.5 million people together in an area the size of one Paris district. More than 3.5 million people that have to be fed three times a day. Here, in less than 24 hours, more than two million meals are served free of charge. There are two restaurants like this one. They're only open on this occasion and for one day only.' (ALL CHATTER IN ARABIC)

TRANSLATOR: Go sit down at the table. Here, my dear, for you and your family. There's enough for four. Go ahead! 'This man not only helps with the serving, he also finances these charity meals. Mohamed Al-Amoudi is a multi-millionaire. He started out with nothing, today, he heads a multi-national company that has branches throughout the world. A company having nothing to do with the food industry.

Mohamed Al-Amoudi earned his millions in international finance.' (SPEAKS ARABIC) 'Very sought after, this Saudi is fulfilling one of the duties of all Muslims, the zakat - charity. Along with the pilgrimage, it's one of the five pillars of Islam.' (ALL SPEAK ARABIC) RANSLATOR: For Allah the merciful, this is a very important day. The day of forgiveness and of generosity. (ALL SPEAK ARABIC) TRANSLATOR: May God accept what I give to the poorest of the pilgrims. May God, through this act, agree to pardon our sins. 'In the kingdom of Saudi Arabia, businesses are not taxed. The zakat is an obligatory contribution. It's calculated according to the profits of each company. In his two restaurants, at a cost of more than 20 million euros, Mohamed Al-Amoudi offers meals, blankets and clothes for the benefit of the poorest.

Pilgrims who come from third-world countries. All of those who arrive in Mecca and have nothing left. Millions of the faithful from every country, from every circumstance, men, women and children, 120 nationalities that now become one. Encampments are organised by families and nationalities.

Here, no-one complains about the difficult living conditions. Here in the desert, there are no permanent installations. Just toilet facilities that will be removed after the departure for Mina.

We arrive in Mina, the third step of the great pilgrimage. Tents as far as the eye can see. The Saudi authorities have put up more than 44,000. Permanent installations but which here also are only used a few days out of the year. Here, in theory, accommodations are expected to improve.' (SPEAKS ARABIC) 'It's time for sermon. We're with the French pilgrims. It's here that we rejoin Doctor Attout in a tent reserved for men only. There are nearly 100 men in a 200sqm space.' TRANSLATOR: No, I thought it would be a little better.

After you get over the disappointment of the first day, you forget all that very fast. The agency told us, more or less, what to expect but without going into details. When you ask people who have already gone on the pilgrimage... ..they're so happy to have done it that they all end up saying it went very well. They don't go into the quality of the accommodation, the waiting, the food, all that. Which means that we imagined things to be better than they actually are. You know, religion in Islam, patience is rewarded by God. The more you suffer, the more you learn to be patient and then, the greater the reward will be. This is what explains the fact that you see elderly people suffering so much and never complaining, never getting upset.

Except in the difficulties. I think it's a great experience,

living together like this. A context that is 100% spiritual. Difficult living conditions but it's a great experience. I think that's what we should try to remember about all this. 'In the 3,500-euro tour package, meals are included. On the menu, pasta or rice. TRANSLATOR: The meals are satisfactory on the whole, the quality of the meals. We're close to Asia, so there's a lot of rice. But here, for once, they're not serving rice. We're eating pasta and meatballs - kafta. Doesn't it bother you not to be eating at a table?

Absolutely not. Absolutely not.

I can say this in all honesty, no. I find this almost nicer, more convivial. If there were tables everywhere, people would be isolated in small groups. But here, we're all together as if there was one big table. Yeah, it's like one big table. 'The long procession continues towards Jamarat - the stoning of the pillars. This too is a part of Muslim tradition, the day of the sacrifice.' (MAN ANNOUNCES ON SPEAKER) (SPEAKS FRENCH) RANSLATOR: It's grandiose, extraordinary, magnificent. There are no words to describe what once feels in these moments. Now we come to the Jamarat, the stoning of the three pillars which represent the Devil. First the small pillar, then the medium size, and finally the big one. So here are the stones, 21 stones, seven for each pillar. They're little pebbles that I picked up in Mina. This ritual goes back to the story of Abraham and the three devils who each try to convince him three times not to go through with the sacrifice of his son Ishmael. But Abraham and his wife and his son renounced them each time by throwing three stones, and so the tradition remains to this day. The idea is to invoke God, to say Allah is great. Allah is great. That's the only reason for this. Do you hear the sound it makes? MAN: Allahu akbar. Allahu akbar. (BOTH SPEAK IN URDU) TRANSLATOR: One is missing - the seventh one! Because the first time, I missed and hit someone's head instead.

It's too bad, but I have to leave now because there's too much pushing. What are you feeling right now? It's incredible. I can't describe how it feels. Of course, there's the pressure of the immense crowd, pushing and shoving - it's incredible. Then they throw the stones, they appeal to God, they stop here to pray and chant. Now we're heading directly for the second pillar. 'The ritual is followed down to the letter. It's like a ballet -

every minute, there are 6,000 believers moving past these pillars which symbolise evil.' (SHOUTS INSTRUCTIONS) 'The pushing and shoving can get quite rough but usually without serious consequences. This year, there were no tragic events like in 1990, when 1,426 pilgrims died right here. Or in 1994, in 2004, or more recently in 2006 when 362 people were trampled. These are the official counts. The Saudi authorities invest considerable sums of money for the safety of the pilgrims and they want everyone to know about it. Thus, a special tour is offered to the foreign media. We're invited to enter the inner sanctum of police headquarters, based in Mina.' (SPEAKS ARABIC) Yeah, if you have any questions, we give it later on. ALL: OK. Yeah, come on.

'We're on a guided tour of the video control room which is operational 24 hours a day. Nothing escapes police vigilance.' This is section four controlling all people. Control them, watching them. Keep them safe until they're going to Haram for tawaf. How many cameras have you got all around? In Mecca area, 662 cameras. And in other places? In the other places, around about, totally 1,200 and it has been each year, we have built more locations, more cameras. Means that you know everything. We know everything. 'On the ground, no less than 20,000 policemen,

5,000 firemen, thousands of volunteers are deployed to direct and oversee the crowd.' TRANSLATOR: Follow the road! Keep going straight. You won't get lost. 'And when it is necessary, the policemen clear the people off main roads.' SIREN WAILS 'When there is no more room in the tents, the faithful sleep wherever they can.' (SPEAKS ARABIC) 'We returned to police headquarters.' (MAN SPEAKS ON SPEAKER) What is the most common danger for you now? We don't have any danger. We have just control all the planning, and so far,

uh, we believe now, everything goes in control. 'And we're able to witness this ourselves. The camera films the people evacuating the stoning ritual. Thousands of people are pressed together. The crowd is getting denser every minute. So jammed together and in the stifling heat, some pilgrims are feeling ill.'

(SPEAKS ARABIC)

'Permanently in touch with headquarters, the police are soon in control of the situation. Everything returns to normal all in the space of five minutes. 20 helicopters permanently circle the area. They're on the lookout for anything that gets out of hand which happens often. As usual, the police remain calm. They have the procedure down cold and soon, they're on top of the situation. After the tragic events of the past years, the Saudis have no margin for error. A minor incident could mean thousands of potential pilgrims might reconsider travelling to Mecca. A loss for Saudi Arabia and a blow to development in such a lucrative sector. We arrive in Mecca, the last stop of the great pilgrimage. The faithful circle the Kaaba, the black stone, seven times. There are over a million people in this space.' (MAN ANNOUNCES ON SPEAKER) 'At the entrance of the city, there are tremendous traffic jams.

17,000 buses have been mobilised since last week. Doctor Attout left Mina more than four hours ago. Four hours to travel 17km - he is exhausted.' What happened? TRANSLATOR: We were 200m from the hotel, they asked us to turn around because everything is blocked. If we do that, it means another six hours. We've already been on the bus for four hours. And in this heat. In this heat and with this smell! It's like being in Mexico City with all this pollution. The chaos is unimaginable because of all the traffic, all the buses. I think it's beyond their control because of how huge the hajj is. Mecca is already cramped for space to begin with. You'd think they'd have found a solution by now. 'It will take the bus another hour to go 200m. After a week of camping out, Doctor Attout will return to the comfort of a five-star hotel.' (ALL CHATTER IN ARABIC) TRANSLATOR: Are we close to room four? Oh, I see. TRANSLATOR: Here's room four. Second tower, tenth floor, room four. OK, here we are! We found our room and it's not bad at all! I don't know if the others have chosen their beds because there are four of us tonight. Four men? Your wife isn't with you?

My wife is not with me because of the tour package that we chose. I think that 90% of the hajj pilgrims chose the option men only, women only. But the religion doesn't forbid us from selecting a studio for two. I think there's a difference of 1,000 euros more than on the other option.

Ah, oui! Ooh, la la la la la! TRANSLATOR: Oh, magnificent view! That alone is worth 3,500 euros. Listen to the noise, it's incredible. It's like a beehive. (IMITATES BEE BUZZING) Oh, la la la la la. I think we have a great room. It's fantastic. I'm going to settle in. For a good night's rest that's well deserved! MAN ON SPEAKER: Allahu akbar! Salam wa aleikum. We're going to do some shopping. We're going to join my wife and then we'll go shopping.

Spending money is the name of the game here. Spend, spend, spend! How much will you spend? 1,000? 2,000 euros? I must already be about 3,000 euros over budget. (BOTH SPEAK FRENCH) That's a lot. I don't think there's one hotel here that doesn't have a shopping centre. It's systematic. Even in the big hotel chains. Oh, no, it's too crowded. Everyone is grabbing at everything. There's no way we can shop like this. There's supposed to be another store upstairs, let's go have a look. Business is business here. Business around the clock. Anyway, the Muslim religion is one that favours capitalism. Just about anything can be bought or sold. It's no different than in Europe. The only difference is the negotiating. Here, everything can be negotiated and it's great for the buyers. MACHINES BLEEP AND BOOP

That's also remarkable is that there are prayer rooms within the shopping centres which are considered to be part of the holy mosque. The shops are starting to close. It'll soon be time for prayer, so everyone is closing. So prayer time is the only time business ever stops?

Business stops when it's time for prayer. (MAN CHANTS ON SPEAKER) 'A break that will only last ten minutes, then it's business as usual.' (MAN CHANTS ON SPEAKERS) 'An auction in the jewellery store.' (SPEAKS ARABIC) 'Pieces studded with diamonds, precious gems, rings, necklaces or gold bracelets. Here, in one week, the sales volume is half of what it is over an entire year. Commerce is flourishing.' (ALL CHATTER) He says that the day has been a very profitable one. I don't dare ask him what they've sold but it's obviously a little bit of everything. TRANSLATOR: We're allowed to do business during the hajj. We've finished the hajj, now we can do some shopping. Do as we please. How much will you spend? Oh, it depends. Will you spend thousands of euros? No. Tens of thousands! I will be more modest than this gentleman. I won't spend tens of thousands of euros. No, not tens of thousands, let's not exaggerate. At least ten thousand? Yes, about that much. Like he says, anyone is allowed to do business during the hajj. All business transactions are permitted. But we aren't really doing business, just buying presents for the family. (SPEAKS ARABIC) 'Already in the time of the prophet Mohammed, in 570, Mecca was a centre for commerce.

People came from all over the Arabic peninsula and from elsewhere to trade, sell and buy.

Today, the transformation of the city continues. It's difficult to image that a few centuries ago, Mecca was still an immense desert area like this. But the Kaaba and the sacred stone attracted more and more believers. Through the centuries, the sacred territory has grown. Today, the construction projects are even more gigantic. Here's what Mecca will look like in less than ten years. Stores, shopping centres, major thoroughfares that are more fluid - a new futuristic mosque and a high-speed train between Mecca and Medina, the other holy city of the kingdom. For the first stage, Saudi Arabia has already made available 40 billion euros to open up and develop the city. The day following the great pilgrimage, we return to Arafat, to Muzdalifah and to Mina. These holy places, where only yesterday, there were millions of people gathered together. Today, the murmur of prayers has been replaced by the noise of pneumatic drills. Construction workers everywhere, thousands of them. About 50 different nationalities, all Muslim, and who work for the same public works company.' MACHINERY WHIRS 'Here, they will triple the capacity of this site. In Mecca, they're working on enlarging the mosque which encircles the Kaaba.

A restructuring that will mean an increased capacity of three to four million people at the same time in the same place. This building which overlooks the Kaaba is the royal palace. It will be torn down and rebuilt some distance away. On the city heights, where everyday, more land is being developed on the hills surrounding Mecca. Here, a square metre of constructible land is the most expensive in the world. From 120 to 150,000 euros, ten times the square metre on the Champs Elysees. 120 to 150,000 euros for a concession valid for only 25 years. The rush is on among the building promoters. For Saudis, Kuwaitians, Qataris, the lots are prime investments and getting harder to come by. But only Muslims are allowed to invest here. Five towers, each 40 storeys high, will have been built here before 2010. The majority of these works have been entrusted by the royal family to the Binladin Group. By special permission, we have been authorised to film their head offices built entirely of marble. In the lobby are the models for the two great holy mosques. The group is the biggest building contractor in the Middle East.' (SPEAKS ARABIC) 'Since September 11th 2001, the Bin Laden family has avoided the media. We are received by their spokesman.' (SPEAKS ARABIC) RANSLATOR: These projects are on an incredibly grand scale. Both the mosque and the Kaaba. They have been acclaimed by the international press. For such projects to be in the hands of one group is unique in all the world. And it is to serve the pilgrims. It is not for the money that we are doing this. But for the good of all the pilgrims and all the Muslims in the world. 'The development of Mecca is invariably linked to the Bin Ladens. It is their group that has built most of the towers

which surround the Great Mosque such as the Zamzam tower.'

We join Abderahman Belgat.' (SPEAKS FRENCH)

TRANSLATOR: This is such a majestic entrance. It's like going across a magical drawbridge into an enchanted castle. In a few seconds, we are in the heart of the house of God. It's extraordinary. 'Thanks to him, we are allowed into the sacred perimeter with our cameras. On your left, you have the Hilton, the Intercontinental, and a little further to your right, is the Meridian. It has become a bit like Disneyland. Yes, a little but not in a really negative sense. It still is the very heart and centre of Mecca today. You must understand that here, the closer you are to Mecca, as I said earlier, the more the value of each square foot goes sky-high. Price is no object here.

People will pay whatever is necessary to come and pray here, so this business is eternal. Even longer than oil? Certainly. We expect the oil reserves to last

for perhaps another 50, 60, 80 years. But if we look at what's on the horizon for 2050,

we foresee the world's Muslim population doubling. That means from 1.3 billion today to 2.5 billion. Figure it out. If you invest in this business, you can't lose. 'An eternal business. The Saudis, by now, are convinced of this. For the first time, they're organising a forum on religious tourism. And to give added dazzle to this event, it's Prince Nayef, King Abdullah's brother, Minister Of Interior and president of the Supreme Commission Of Tourism who opens the forum.' Is this type of visit very important? TRANSLATOR: It validates the fact that religious tourism has become not only important or useful but an essential part of the economic and social life of the kingdom. It's a major event. It's no longer simply a transformation but a veritable cultural revolution. 'In his speech, Prince Nayef says that religious tourism is one of the pillars of the economy. Much like the great pilgrimage, is a pillar of the Muslim religion. In Saudi Arabia, such a statement will obviously have a profound effect.

It is the beginning of a new era.' APPLAUSE 'In the vicinity of Mecca, the authorities are about to launch an equally gigantic project. It is the tourist city of King Abdullah - a city that will be built to accommodate 700,000 pilgrims who wish to invest and settle near the holy city. A project slated at 20 billion euros. The Saudi authorities don't want to stop there. The economic perspectives of the pilgrimage has given them wings. Five kilometres from Medina, they're also planning the construction of a new city in the middle of the desert - a city that could house about 200,000 residents. More pilgrims means more customers. In less than 20 years, in Saudi Arabia, religious tourism will have replaced the revenues from black gold.' Closed Captions by CSI Well, plans on an epic scale. We'll see what unfolds. Please let us know what you think of the story and we'd invite you to visit us at -

We really do appreciate your comments.

'And while visiting our website, please check out a Compass event we're inviting you to be part of. Religious leaders from around the world are converging on Melbourne from 3rd to 9th December for the Parliament of World Religions. It's held every four years and for the first time ever in Australia. Compass will be there to host a panel discussion on one of the pressing issues of our time. As debate rages over how we should deal with refugees, we'll be asking, how can we live together in a pluralist society? How do we maintain social cohesion amid large movements of people and different belief systems? Now if you have a question you'd like me to put to them, I invite you to email us via our contact link from our website or you can post it to - Next week on Compass... 'On the 150th anniversary of the publication of Charles Darwin's landmark research, we present a film that asks -' 'The Origin Of Species is not the great atheistic treatise it is often claimed to be.' I think evolution is the answer to how. God is the answer to why. 'Darwin talked about the impossibility of this wonderful universe being conceived by blind chance, believing that there must be an intelligent mind behind it all.

He presented his work as beginning and ending with God.' Did Darwin Kill God? It's a great question and it's next Sunday on Compass. Until then, goodnight. Closed Captions by CSI * Where did you go? We started here, we flew around the whole island, went to Hana and you know what we saw? We saw a round rainbow. Double round rainbow. A huge one. I don't know how it happened, I've never... Full-circle. A full-circle rainbow. Then it was doubled. A double full-circle rainbow. A magical thing. Really fun. You know how tall this rainbow was? About 1,200 feet tall, right? And then... THEME MUSIC From my perspective, as someone who kind of grew up looking at surfer magazines and dreaming of, you know, waves in Hawaii and incessantly drawing waves in their notebooks at school. Sometimes you would draw these waves that were, you know, just massive and then you'd put a little tiny guy on them. Laird Hamilton was the guy who turned those drawings into reality. Eddie Vedder is a man, a father and the defender of rock and roll. And a hell of a singer and he surfs and he loves the ocean. So anybody who loves the ocean is a friend of mine. I'm still kind of in tour mode.

It takes time to acclimate yourself, especially you know, to the water. I live in Seattle now and I have to get reacquainted with the ocean.

Make peace with it, so it's nice to me. You know you're going with Laird so you're kind of getting backstage. I am fortunate to know Eddie and this is an opportunity to really spend some time with him. Normally, with our lives and the way we're going, we don't get much time, so to be able to have an excuse, you know, that we can give our wives, that we can hang out together, is great. 'Eddie was in Seattle, which is like a rock and roll breeding ground for young rock bands, especially during the time when Pearl Jam began.' Early on, when we were making the first few records, you know, it became a scene, and then it got kind of co-opted and then it kind of blew up big and kind of went global. (SPEAKS DUTCH) You couldn't really be ready for it. Little bit overwhelming to see this many people. It's a lot of people. We're used to playing small clubs, you know? # PEARL JAM: Life Wasted Eddie's had the great fortune, but also worked his tail off to be able to really have a format and an opportunity to really present his feelings. I've always liked Eddie since I met him and appreciated his genuine passion and his love for, for his, you know, his craft.

Some people you hang out with and think, "Wow, you've really chosen an interesting way to navigate this open field which is life." # PEARL JAM: UNEMPLOYABLE He's ridden every kind of wave, he's ridden every kind of board. Every time he gets a bigger wave, it's like his whole life has just built up to this next level. So I'm glad you decided to do the show. I know you don't do a lot of this stuff. Yeah well, you kind of, you suckered me into it with some ocean waves and uh, tutorial from Laird and all. I've got a summertime gym routine, mostly because wintertime is not the greatest time to train. Really simple stuff where we're doing like, you know, where you're doing one leg and trying to create flexibility. When you talk about being able to handle speed and the big surf, you need power, but it needs to be power and strength that you can control. I'll do balance stuff and then

combine it with some sort of rotator cuff thing, where you...you know where you balance, OK? # PEARL JAM: Worldwide Suicide I've seen Laird in the middle of an afternoon conversation about nature and evolution and the trajectory of the lip of a 40-foot wave and all that, and I've seen him say like, "Oh, excuse me one second," and he'll run off down the beach and help three knuckleheads, who've beached their jet ski and flipped over their ATV or whatever. Spent twenty minutes to get 'em back up on the road or whatever and then he'll come back and get right back in the conversation. I love Ed. Ed's awesome. You know the thing is, you have guys like that who you meet, I mean, you haven't spent that much time with. But you have this unspoken thing, where whenever you see them, you start right where you left off. Ed's a little bit the mystery man. Him and I probably have a lot more in common than we even realise. And I like Ed, cos Ed's kind of, he's mellow, but he's not that mellow.

So I like that, cos he's a bit under the radar. It's summer, so we don't expect the kind of waves out here, but there's actually a little wave right over there. We're going into his arena now. This is Laird's world. Oh, here we go. You made it! They let you out, huh? This is your only excuse. Did I get a wake-up call? Yeah, I gave you a wake-up call this morning. 8:30am, is that early? You know what? I was already dreaming. That's 12 o'clock Seattle time. I was dreaming that we were surfing, I thought I'd actually woken up. We were actually on some waves. Nice to see ya. All right. How was it? My favourite place. We got a good excuse. Yeah, yeah. We got some new additions, look, some guardians. Oh, yeah, yeah. Are the girls here too?

Yeah, Gabby's running around, they all came. Here they are. The two princesses. Reece is two years, eight months. Viola! Get up, let's see you! Reece likes to get scared. Like got that snap kind of, fall down the stairs, break the teeth out, you know. Two minutes later, "That's OK, next thing, here we go." Ran into it? Yeah.

Into the boat? Yeah. Did it stop you? No.

No? I didn't be scared. I know, you're not scared about that. You weren't scared when we went by the dolphins either. I took her out with a big pack of dolphins. I put her on my shoulders, and just sat her right on my neck, paddled out and we intersected the pack. They split us and went around us and she's like, "Where are the sharks?" Thought my first would be like me, the second one got the crazy gene. Reece, energetically, has so many similarities to Laird, that it's funny and really scary all at the same time you know? Hey, Reece, I'm watching you with that chocolate bar. I'm not eating it. All right. It's Laird in a dress.

That's what we say, it's Laird in a skirt. That was that day at Lani Kai. Yep. That's a great shot. They've so much light in and around them. Coming out of them. Yeah. # PEARL JAM: Come Back It's interesting, the whole fatherhood thing. Everyone says it changes everything, but it's beyond that. It changes your chemical reactions, it changes your brainwaves. My girl was really into having a little one and there was some things coming up in the future so we thought, "Well maybe we'll wait like a year," you know, and then it happened. And then looking back, if we would have waited a year, that would have just been a lost year. Bella, you remember Eddie? We hung out a bit in California. Izabella, she just gradugated fifth grade. Gradugated? That's how I say it where I went to school. Oh, sorry. Cos you graduated sixth grade. I think I made it through sixth grade.

Did you make it through high school? No. Me neither. First day of 11th grade I think was my last day. That was the end of it.

But I know a lot of well-educated gas pumpers. Are you talking about me? No. That's what I was. (BOTH LAUGH) No, I'm just saying, I know a lot of guys, 4.0 college guys that are pumping gas at gas stations. Honestly, I've never been asked for my diploma in all these years.

Got one board that you can see if you want to ride. I know that normally those other ones are big for you, you know, these 12-footers are pretty monster. I know you don't mind them, but I might bring this one in case like, an 11-footer. That's the original Teahupoo board. That's it right there. Can I pull it out, so I can feel the weight? Sure. We rode the big one on that. I was just watching that footage. August 17th, 2000. That was almost six years ago. Unbelievable. 'There was one wave in particular, like the wave heard around the world.

When I saw the photos of that wave you kind of fell to your knees, you know, it's astonishing. This wave and the photos that came out of it. I think all surfers fell to their knees on that, just cos it made their knees weak. Then once they realised that, they were on their knees, then we all realised that everyone was bowing down to Laird. And they just pretty much stayed there. The thing about a natural gift, I mean, a gift can be a curse too.